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</a>  With the sign for the ladies&rsquo; tagged &ldquo;fishwives&rdquo; and the pictures on the wall depicting the fine art of herring-gutting being practised by beefy women in voluminous skirts, it would be remiss of any but the fish-loathing visitor to leave Craster without a packet of kippers. And so, after quenching our drouth, we hop across the road to L Robson & Sons, with its shop among the sheds where the village&rsquo;s kippers are smoked. Thus armed, we hit the coastal path again, feeling most jolly.